Mavericks


As the season worsens in terms of weather the outdoor activity in our area actually increases. With helicopters buzzing overhead nearly every other day, hardcore surfers head out to Maverick's and spectators line the cliffs overlooking the monster waves. I went out at sunset the other day during a low tide to get a glimpse from down below. It's not the welcoming sunny surf days in Cali that the world has come to know through television, but rather it is cold, dark, and harrowing. Overcast skies with only a few small cloud breaks, as well as a light fog that had settled later in the day, made visibility terribly poor. Surf smashed against the rocks up to 25ft high gushing water through the reef I was walking on, feeling as if I'd wandered into the heart of a gigantic monster. And yet, at the peak, right as the darkness of evening loomed and others packed up to leave, this lone surfer heads out into the chaos to chase the largest waves of the day. Truly insane stuff.

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